August 2, 2007


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Perfecting a pound of pasta
How local chefs do it
By Susan Manley

Federico Fellini once said that “life is a combination of magic and pasta.” Coming from a filmmaker who wove hallucinatory images into scenes of everyday life, this speaks directly to the power of the simple flour-egg-water recipe that becomes delectable shapes designed to cling to lush sauces.

Now that the carb-counting trend seems to have fallen by the wayside and eating spaghetti isn’t akin to one of the seven deadly sins, it is safe to say that pasta is back. It is la dolce vita that a box of pasta that will feed four can be had for less than the price of a cup of coffee. And while the quality of the pasta is important, the devil is in the details. It is really about the sauce.

Local chefs offered up some of their favorite sauce recipes for a pound of pasta. Jeff Paige, chef-owner of Cotton in Manchester, simmers a hearty Bolognese with beef, lamb, pork and veal. Tom Puskarich, chef and co-owner of the new Z in Manchester, puts a California spin on pasta by tossing whole wheat penne with turkey, cranberries and walnuts among other ingredients. Chris Kamel, the chef at Billy’s Sports Bar in Manchester, takes the classic vodka sauce and dresses it up with shrimp and sun-dried tomatoes. Meghan Levins, chef at The Barley House in Concord, offers up a Guinness cheese sauce that makes a tasty “adult” macaroni and cheese. And finally, Justin Lyonnais, always thinking outside the box, is a big fan of these pad thai spring rolls dreamt up by his fiancée, with the noodles on the inside.


Jeff Paige, chef-owner of Cotton, 75 Arms St., Manchester, 622-5488,

Rigatoni alla Bolognese
“Ragu alla Bolognese, Bologna, Italy, is the classic meat sauce with little tomato. American cooks often confuse this sauce with [the] Naples version, a tomato sauce flavored with little meat. This is the dish I love to make when I want to spend the day in the kitchen. It’s a very easy sauce to make, it just requires several hours of slow and low cooking. The choice of meat used will produce a sauce unique and distinct in flavor and character. The addition of milk may seem a little odd, but it is a crucial step in ensuring a tender sauce. I typically opt for Italian canned plum tomatoes since canned tomatoes are packed at their peak of freshness. Last, but not least, seek out a great Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. This sauce works well with either jumbo rigatoni or pappardelle. I often serve this at Cotton. My favorites are with lamb, beef-pork-veal and chicken. The ground chicken makes a great light sauce.”

1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup minced onion
¼ cup minced carrot
1½ lbs. ground lamb, beef, pork, chicken, turkey or veal or
½ lb. each of beef, pork and veal milk
white wine
one 8-oz. can tomato puree or sauce
one 28-oz. can crushed or chopped plum tomatoes in juice
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
kosher salt
fresh ground black pepper
1 lb. rigatoni, pappardelle or fettuccine (fresh or dried)
? to ½ lb. Parmigiano Reggiano cheese for shaving over pasta

1. Heat the butter and olive oil in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Add  the minced onions and carrots, cooking until soft, but not browned, stirring often. This will take 6-8 minutes.
2. Add the ground meat, stirring to break up into little pieces, and cook until the meat is cooked, but not browned.
3. Add enough milk to cover the mixture, raise the heat to a simmer, and cook until almost reduced dry, stirring often.
4. Add enough white wine to cover the mixture, raise the heat to a simmer and cook until almost reduced dry, stirring often.
5. Add the tomato puree and crushed tomatoes with juices. Reduce heat to a very, very low simmer. Cook the sauce for 2½ to 3 hours, stirring often.
6. Season to taste with kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper.
7. Stir in the freshly chopped basil just before serving.

To serve
1. Heat a large pot of water, at least 1 gallon, to a rolling boil.
2. Add a tablespoon of kosher salt and the pasta, stirring for a few seconds.
3. Cook the pasta to desired doneness and drain, leaving the pasta a little wet. Return the pasta to the pot and toss with the sauce.
4. Portion into four to six serving bowls.
5. Grate or shave the cheese with a vegetable peeler over each portion and serve.

Tom Puskarich, chef and co-owner of Z, 860 Elm St., Manchester, 629-9383,

Pasta with Tenderloin
“My mother had a knack for stretching Sunday dinner into another two or three days’ worth of meals — turkey wasn’t just for carving. I’ve used a tenderloin in this recipe, but chicken works just as well. Chicken may also be used. If you don’t have dry sherry on hand, a dry white wine will do.”

1 lb whole wheat penne pasta
1 tablespoon XVO
1 cup chicken stock
1 small clove garlic, whole
1 small Bermuda onion, sliced
1 turkey tenderloin cut into cubes
½ cup dried cranberries
½ cup chopped walnuts
1 bag baby spinach
¼ cup dry sherry
¼ cup butter
½ cup fresh grated Pecorino Romano
salt and pepper to taste

Cook pasta in salted water until tender; drain and set aside.  In large pot, heat the olive oil and sauté the onions, garlic and turkey until turkey is nicely browned (3-5 minutes). Remove garlic clove, deglaze pan with sherry, add chicken stock and reduce to low heat; add the cranberries, walnuts, spinach, and butter. Add the pasta, salt and pepper and stir until butter is melted. Serve family-style in a large bowl. Top with grated pecorino-romano.

Chris Kamel, chef at Billy’s Sports Bar, 34 Tarrytown Road, Manchester, 622-3644,

Vodka Sauce with Shrimp & Sun-dried Tomatoes
1 lb of your favorite pasta (I prefer penna)
1 lb shrimp
2 cups sun-dried tomatoes
¾ cup diced onion
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons fresh garlic (chopped)
28 oz. crushed tomatoes with juice
1 cup vodka
½ cup heavy cream
1 cup grated parm cheese
salt & pepper to taste
fresh basil for garnish

Sautée onions, garlic and olive until soft. Add shrimp and sun-dried tomatoes and season with salt and pepper. Allow to cook for 1-2 minutes, then add crushed tomatoes and cook until thickened. Then add vodka and let reduce for 3-4 minutes. Add cream and let cook 2-3 minutes. Add your cooked pasta and toss together well. Remove from heat and place on your favorite serving dish. Add grated parm cheese on top and garnish with fresh basil. I suggest serving this dish with garlic bread.

Meghan Levins, chef at The Barley House, 132 N. Main St., Concord, 228-6363,

Guinness Cheese Sauce
“Revered as the ultimate American comfort food, macaroni and cheese brings me right back to being a kid. This Guinness Cheddar Cheese sauce is more ‘adult,’ and its characteristic bitter flavor can be complemented with any of your favorite cheeses or a blend. Also makes a great dipping sauce! This is a huge hit at The Barley House.”
1 quart heavy cream
¼ cup butter
½ white onion, sliced
5 cups shredded cheese (your choice)
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
salt and pepper to taste
1 cup Guinness
Melt butter in a two-quart pot. Sautée onions in butter until translucent. Add heavy cream. When heavy cream comes to a boil, whisk cheese in small amounts into heavy cream. Turn burner off. Continue to stir until all the cheese is incorporated. Strain onions, then add Guinness.

Justin Lyonnais, chef at Commercial Street Fishery, 33 S. Commercial St., Manchester, 296-0706,

Shrimp Pad Thai Spring Rolls
“We don’t use much pasta at CSF but the one dish that I could eat for the rest of my life would be any variation of Pad Thai. I was inspired by my fiancée after intensely watching her create her own version of this classic dish from Thailand. Here is one of our new spring appetizers.”
20 spring roll wrappers
1 lb. rice noodles (soaked in hot water until tender, about 3-5 minutes)
½ lb. small shrimp
4 oz. sesame oil
2 tablespoons fresh ginger
2 tablespoons fresh garlic
2 tablespoons fresh lemongrass
¼ cup rice wine vinegar
¼ cup fish sauce
juice from 2 limes
3 eggs
3 tablespoons chili sauce
2 tsp. brown sugar
½ cup toasted and ground peanuts
½ cup cilantro

Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat and cook ginger, garlic and lemongrass quickly. Add shrimp and cook until done. Add fish sauce, lime juice, vinegar, chili sauce and sugar. Boil for two minutes. Scramble the eggs and add them to the pan. Let the eggs set up before you stir them. Turn the pan down to medium heat and toss in the rice noodles, cilantro and peanuts. Cook the noodles for two more minutes and enjoy with an ice cold beer. That’s what happens at home!! Or at the restaurant we cool and wrap the noodles with the spring roll wrapper and fry golden brown. We serve them with a ginger pea shoot salad and Thai peanut sauce.

7/26/2007 Gourmet Concord?

7/19/2007 Tart treats of a New Hampshire summer
7/12/2007 Reintroducing ratatouille
7/5/2007 Time to hit the grill
6/28/2007 Peanutty dinner delight
6/21/2007 Spicy meat, grilled meat and saucy meat
6/14/2007 Holy Barbecue
6/07/2007 A wine for Red Sox
5/31/2007 Pinot noir romance
5/24/2007 Josh Logan eats (not before shows)
5/17/2007 Baklava, spanakopita and souvlaki — a.k.a. dinner
5/10/2007 Cremeland celebrates 60 years of burgers and shakes
5/3/2007 New eats in bloom
4/26/2007 Pho sure
4/19/2007 Cakes, cow-free
4/12/2007 Serving up the first square
4/5/2007 More than just a chocolate bunny
3/29/2007 New 'nuches
3/22/2007 A taste of genuine sweetness
3/15/2007 From homemade to home business
3/8/2007 Shop the farmers' market year round
3/1/2007 Feeding Mama Kicks
2/22/2007 Keepers of the vino
2/15/2007 Noodly comfort food
2/8/2007 The luxury of osso bucco
2/1/2007 Super platters for the Super Bowl
1/25/2007 It's a wrap
1/18/2007 The writing foodie
1/11/2007 Where the beef is, piled high and hot
1/04/2007 The healthy foodie
12/28/2006 The return of pasta and fall of the diet: the year in eats
12/21/2006 Organic on the ice
12/14/2006 French but not fussy
12/07/2006 Southeast U.S. culture, in sandwich form
11/30/2006 Bites of comfort with chips of happiness
11/23/2006 Cityside adds class to conveniece
11/16/2006 Easier-to-enjoy Thanksgiving feasts
11/9/2006 The new classic
10/26/2006 Whip up a quiche
10/19/2006 A new way to crepe
10/12/2006 Comfort food for blokes and birds
10/05/2006 Smaller crop but still red and delicious
09/28/2006 The crunchier, lighter, healthier wrap
09/21/2006 City bagels in suburbia
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09/07/2006 Eat your way down the block
08/31/2006 New flavors for an old summer dish
08/24/2006 Way down south in Hollis
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08/10/2006 Enjoy the bluest month
08/03/2006 Death of Toro
07/27/2006 Vacation on a plate
07/20/2006 Hitting barbecue big time
07/13/2006 Relishing the raspberry
07/06/2006 Are your edible souveneirs kosher?
06/29/2006 Fish, upscale
06/22/2006 Sweet rosey taste of summer
06/15/2006 When to pull out the EVOO
06/08/2006 What can you grill?
06/01/2006 Taste of downtown Nashua
05/25/2006 Deulge at farms
05/18/2006 Adorable and delicious
05/11/2006 Rub down
05/04/2006 Pinot to go
04/27/2006 A bit Italian, a bit egg foo young
04/20/2006 Meatier than breakfast...
04/13/2006 Let yourself eat cake
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03/30/2006 Making Friday a fishy delight
03/23/2006 The Thin Mints are here
03/16/2006 Divining your personality from pizza
03/09/2006 Cooking up a big bowl of comfort
03/02/2006 Dumplings demystified
02/23/2006 Carbs and comfort all the way
02/16/2006 She sells sushi by the sea shore
2/09/2006 Biting into the burger with bling
02/02/2006 Forget formal dining, head to the bar
01/26/2006 Goodbye rooster, hello year of the dog
01/19/2006 The secret lives of chefs
01/12/2006 Cooking up a pot of delayed gratification
01/05/2006 A sunny Italian side dish
A year of eats

All-you-can-read guide to breakfast
A bagel by any other l
A picnic — it’s romance with ants
A sweet burst of summer, in stages
Beef, It's What's For Dinner, Lunch, And Dessert
Be it ever so humble, the burger rules
Blockbuster snacks for your movie
Box Of Chocolates
C Is For Cookie And Christmas And Cool Combo
Celebrating A Holiday For The Rest Of Us
Celebrate Easter In A Sugar Coma
Chat And Chew

Chinese soup is magic
Chocolate cake makes everything better
Chocolate, Part II
Competition flows like chocolate
Corn Flake Chicken, Honeycomb Salad
Dining at the "Your House Bistro"
Don't Dread The Bread
Dress Up Your Next Meal
Drinking Out Of The Box
Eating Your Way Back To Health
Enter Soup
Experiments With Very Bad Brownies
Feeding A Crowd The Morning After
Follow the cider house rules
Fresh Herbs
Go ahead — run silent, run deep
Goodbye corn syrup, hello organic oatmeal
Go Indian for Thanksgiving
Grilled Cheese Junkie

Halloween candy for grown-ups
Have a Happy Meal and a happier wallet
Holiday Cookies - The Easy Way
Holiday Potluck 101-Tips For The Kitchen Novice
Home-Based Date
How do you like them apples?
In-A-Pinch Love Feast
It's not easy to be cheesy
It’s not Christmas without tamales
Lest We Forget The Humble Squash
Keeping your cool while you eat
Living through your salad days

Looking Beyond The Hot Dog Stand
Lunching your way to a less toxic you
Meat's meat and a man's gotta eat

Moist and delicious chicken — no, really
Oatmeal Cookies, The Miracle Cure
Oscar Night, When The Stars Come Out To Eat

Offering Up A Slice Of Teriyaki Pie
Pot Pies Are Darn Tasty
Pumpkin-Flavored Treats
Small Plates Are The Next Big Thing
Speedy 'za not pie in the sky
Steak: it’s what’s for dinner, again
Summer coolers, just add sunlight
Summer Squash
Super Bowl Grub
Take A Walk On The Dark Side
Taste of Manchester Event
The Cosmopolitan
The joys of a simple oatmeal breakfast
The return of comfort food
The One-Note Cook Book
The New American Plate Cookbook
The Stickiest, Hottest & Sweetest Of Love's Labors
The taste of retro
The Unheralded Peanut Butter Cookies
The union of sweet and heat
The Weekly Dish (12-16-04)
The Weekly Dish (12-23-04)

The Weekly Dish [1-13-05]
There's a Barbecue Bonanza Next Door
Week Four: Adding Diet To The Mix
What Was Hot And Haute In 2004
When $$ trumps urge to dine out
When in doubt, go for the organic
When nothing else will cool, Slurp it
You Say Potato, She'll Say Potato,Too
You say tomato, writer says lunch