July 5, 2007

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Time to hit the grill
Meat, fruit, bread, veggies — chefs explain how to give everything an outdoor taste
By Susan Manley news@hippopress.com

Local chefs do up the ante when it comes to grilling at home (you won’t find an Oscar Mayer wiener unless it is for the children’s table), but across the board they all keep it simple.

George Bezanson, owner of Bridge Café in Manchester, favors teriyaki marinated yellow fin tuna and halved lobster on the grill. He serves it with a pureed, grilled pineapple and tomato sauce over cous cous.

“I sear the tuna and quickly cook the lobster.  The pineapple and tomato make an amazing barbecue sauce, something completely out of the ordinary,” Bezanson said.

“The key to cooking seafood on the grill is this: make sure the grill is clean and hot so the fish doesn’t stick,” Bezanson said.

Vegetables are on Michael Dussualt’s grill this summer. Dussualt, the chef at Manhattan on Pearl in Nashua, cooks up zucchini, summer squash and eggplant and serves the warm, earthy slices with a feta spinach sauce that is also on the menu at Manhattan on Pearl. The sauce can be served warm, as a dip, or cold, spooned over a platter of grilled vegetables, melting from the heat.

“I like to let the grill do all the work, so I keep it plain and simple,” Dussualt said.  Simple for him means salt, pepper, garlic and a skim of olive oil on vegetables sliced into discs before grilling.

“Vegetables have a great carmelization going on with the heat; it doesn’t take much to get a great result,” Dussault said.

Ribs are the thing that rock Hale Cole-Tucker’s grill. Cole-Tucker is the chef at Depot Square Steakhouse in Derry, and at home he follows the same method he uses at the restaurant. Cole-Tucker poaches the ribs for three hours and then tosses them on the grill.

“I love to grill at home and ribs are my favorite,” he said.

“This is the only way to get that fall-off-the bone effect,” Cole-Tucker said. He serves his ribs with a simple cucumber coleslaw made of diced cucumbers, red onion, sour cream and salt and pepper.

One would think that the owner of a place called Chicken N’ Chips would be big on chicken on the grill. Not the case. Owner Ken Ngoon stays away from cooking chicken when he is not working and instead cooks  either thick, juicy steaks or lobster, crabs or jumbo shrimp.

“If I am cooking chicken, I do a Chinese style, marinated in ginger, garlic, soy and rice wine. I like it because you get a little buzz,” Ngoon said. “But rice on the grill, it doesn’t work so good.”

All joking aside, for his family Ngoon likes to cook the entire meal on the grill. Side dishes can include corn on the cob, left in husks that have been soaked in water and wrapped in foil or grilled, sliced potatoes that have been simply seasoned.

“With grilling, timing is everything,” Ngoon said. “There is nothing that you can’t cook on the grill.”

Constantine Brianas, one of the owners of the Black Orchid Grille in Nashua, takes the simple route, but with exotic ingredients.

When grilling at home, if it is not a juicy plank steak, then he opts for wild black cod or Chilean sea bass.

Brianas serves the cod or sea bass with a skewer of teriyaki marinated jumbo scallops and shrimp.

“The entire meal is fabulous, and so quick,” he said.

Brianas said that the key to cooking seafood on the grill is preparation.

KC’s Rib Shack in Manchester has an alpha male approach to barbecue as propagated by owner Kevin Cornish. It is easy to picture Cornish slapping a huge rib eye proudly on the grill and standing back to admire his work. Not so.

Cornish just spent three nights camping on the Kancamangus Highway and did all the cooking on raw hardwood and coals. Maybe there was the occasional rib eye reminiscent of the Flintstones, but mostly Cornish cooked up fruits and vegetables.

“Lots of people just cook the meat of a meal on the grill. I am cooking 360 degrees of the meal — all of it,” he said.

“My philosophy has basically been just throw it on the grill and see what happens,” he said.

While camping, Cornish sliced up asparagus, green beans, zucchini, summer squash and other vegetables and tossed them in a zip-lock bag with a secret marinade. The vegetables were tossed about in the bag for a couple of hours and then finally thrown on the grill.

“We all just sat around the camp gushing about the vegetables. Wow, they were delicious,” Corning said.



6/28/2007 Peanutty dinner delight

6/21/2007 Spicy meat, grilled meat and saucy meat
6/14/2007 Holy Barbecue
6/07/2007 A wine for Red Sox
5/31/2007 Pinot noir romance
5/24/2007 Josh Logan eats (not before shows)
5/17/2007 Baklava, spanakopita and souvlaki — a.k.a. dinner
5/10/2007 Cremeland celebrates 60 years of burgers and shakes
5/3/2007 New eats in bloom
4/26/2007 Pho sure
4/19/2007 Cakes, cow-free
4/12/2007 Serving up the first square
4/5/2007 More than just a chocolate bunny
3/29/2007 New 'nuches
3/22/2007 A taste of genuine sweetness
3/15/2007 From homemade to home business
3/8/2007 Shop the farmers' market year round
3/1/2007 Feeding Mama Kicks
2/22/2007 Keepers of the vino
2/15/2007 Noodly comfort food
2/8/2007 The luxury of osso bucco
2/1/2007 Super platters for the Super Bowl
1/25/2007 It's a wrap
1/18/2007 The writing foodie
1/11/2007 Where the beef is, piled high and hot
1/04/2007 The healthy foodie
12/28/2006 The return of pasta and fall of the diet: the year in eats
12/21/2006 Organic on the ice
12/14/2006 French but not fussy
12/07/2006 Southeast U.S. culture, in sandwich form
11/30/2006 Bites of comfort with chips of happiness
11/23/2006 Cityside adds class to conveniece
11/16/2006 Easier-to-enjoy Thanksgiving feasts
11/9/2006 The new classic
10/26/2006 Whip up a quiche
10/19/2006 A new way to crepe
10/12/2006 Comfort food for blokes and birds
10/05/2006 Smaller crop but still red and delicious
09/28/2006 The crunchier, lighter, healthier wrap
09/21/2006 City bagels in suburbia
09/14/2006 Cracking the custard code
09/07/2006 Eat your way down the block
08/31/2006 New flavors for an old summer dish
08/24/2006 Way down south in Hollis
08/17/2006 Frappe vs. milkshake
08/10/2006 Enjoy the bluest month
08/03/2006 Death of Toro
07/27/2006 Vacation on a plate
07/20/2006 Hitting barbecue big time
07/13/2006 Relishing the raspberry
07/06/2006 Are your edible souveneirs kosher?
06/29/2006 Fish, upscale
06/22/2006 Sweet rosey taste of summer
06/15/2006 When to pull out the EVOO
06/08/2006 What can you grill?
06/01/2006 Taste of downtown Nashua
05/25/2006 Deulge at farms
05/18/2006 Adorable and delicious
05/11/2006 Rub down
05/04/2006 Pinot to go
04/27/2006 A bit Italian, a bit egg foo young
04/20/2006 Meatier than breakfast...
04/13/2006 Let yourself eat cake
04/06/2006 Fear not the Risotto
03/30/2006 Making Friday a fishy delight
03/23/2006 The Thin Mints are here
03/16/2006 Divining your personality from pizza
03/09/2006 Cooking up a big bowl of comfort
03/02/2006 Dumplings demystified
02/23/2006 Carbs and comfort all the way
02/16/2006 She sells sushi by the sea shore
2/09/2006 Biting into the burger with bling
02/02/2006 Forget formal dining, head to the bar
01/26/2006 Goodbye rooster, hello year of the dog
01/19/2006 The secret lives of chefs
01/12/2006 Cooking up a pot of delayed gratification
01/05/2006 A sunny Italian side dish
A year of eats

All-you-can-read guide to breakfast
A bagel by any other l
abel
A picnic — it’s romance with ants
A sweet burst of summer, in stages
Beef, It's What's For Dinner, Lunch, And Dessert
Be it ever so humble, the burger rules
Blockbuster snacks for your movie
Box Of Chocolates
C Is For Cookie And Christmas And Cool Combo
Celebrating A Holiday For The Rest Of Us
Celebrate Easter In A Sugar Coma
Chat And Chew

Chinese soup is magic
Chocolate cake makes everything better
Chocolate, Part II
Competition flows like chocolate
Corn Flake Chicken, Honeycomb Salad
Dining at the "Your House Bistro"
Don't Dread The Bread
Dress Up Your Next Meal
Drinking Out Of The Box
Eating Your Way Back To Health
Empanadas
Enter Soup
Experiments With Very Bad Brownies
Feeding A Crowd The Morning After
Follow the cider house rules
Fresh Herbs
Go ahead — run silent, run deep
Goodbye corn syrup, hello organic oatmeal
Go Indian for Thanksgiving
Grilled Cheese Junkie

Halloween candy for grown-ups
Have a Happy Meal and a happier wallet
Holiday Cookies - The Easy Way
Holiday Potluck 101-Tips For The Kitchen Novice
Home-Based Date
How do you like them apples?
In-A-Pinch Love Feast
It's not easy to be cheesy
It’s not Christmas without tamales
Lest We Forget The Humble Squash
Keeping your cool while you eat
Living through your salad days

Looking Beyond The Hot Dog Stand
Lunching your way to a less toxic you
Meat's meat and a man's gotta eat

Moist and delicious chicken — no, really
Oatmeal Cookies, The Miracle Cure
Oscar Night, When The Stars Come Out To Eat

Offering Up A Slice Of Teriyaki Pie
Pot Pies Are Darn Tasty
Pumpkin-Flavored Treats
Small Plates Are The Next Big Thing
Speedy 'za not pie in the sky
Steak: it’s what’s for dinner, again
Summer coolers, just add sunlight
Summer Squash
Super Bowl Grub
Take A Walk On The Dark Side
Taste of Manchester Event
The Cosmopolitan
The joys of a simple oatmeal breakfast
The return of comfort food
The One-Note Cook Book
The New American Plate Cookbook
The Stickiest, Hottest & Sweetest Of Love's Labors
The taste of retro
The Unheralded Peanut Butter Cookies
The union of sweet and heat
The Weekly Dish (12-16-04)
The Weekly Dish (12-23-04)

The Weekly Dish [1-13-05]
There's a Barbecue Bonanza Next Door
Week Four: Adding Diet To The Mix
What Was Hot And Haute In 2004
When $$ trumps urge to dine out
When in doubt, go for the organic
When nothing else will cool, Slurp it
You Say Potato, She'll Say Potato,Too
You say tomato, writer says lunch