February 15, 2007


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Noodly comfort food
Pad Thai, once exotic, is now everywhere
By Susan Reilly  news@hippopress.com

Once an exotic dish found only in authentic Thai restaurants, pad Thai is now showing up on Chinese takeout menus across southern New Hampshire.

As poor college students in Boston, my friends and I would eat at a Thai place in Kenmore Square. It was below street level, down steep stairs, and the menu was handwritten in Thai. But the pad Thai in this little family-owned place rocked and for $2.50 (this was the mid-’80s) you would be served a heaping bowl of hot pad that would fill you for the entire day.

Probably the most popular Thai dish in the States, often referred to as Thai Food 101, it appears to have become so mainstream that even small Chinese takeout joints are frying up pad. Whether it can overtake the perennial favorite lo mein remains to be seen — Golden Palace in Milford said that lo mein is still the top noodle there — but it seems to be slowly gaining ground.

“We put pad Thai on the menu because so many people ask for it. It is really very popular,” said Irene Li, the manager of Bamboo Garden in Manchester.

So popular, in fact, that this Chinese restaurant runs a daily pad Thai lunch special — $4.95 for pad, soup and a drink.

“Pad Thai is very popular for lunch because it has so much in one bowl. It is quick and easy to eat and not expensive at all,” she said.

If you are new to pad Thai and worry that the whole noodle thing may be too much to handle with chopsticks, fear not. In Southeast Asia, only the Vietnamese eat with chopsticks. So, if you order pad Thai, you will be handed a fork, all the better to twirl the noodles.

What exactly is pad Thai? It is stir-fried noodles tossed with eggs, nam pla (a salty fish sauce), tamarind juice (which has a sour fruit flavor), red chili pepper, plus any combination of bean sprouts, shrimp, chicken, tofu or beef, garnished with crushed peanuts and cilantro or coriander.

It is always served with a wedge of lime, meant to be squeezed over the noodles as you eat. It is considered a nutritious, cheap meal and is very popular throughout Thailand.

At Red Leaf in Nashua, manager Andy Xie said that people like pad Thai because of all of the different flavors one bite imparts to your tongue.

“It is sweet, sour, salty and hot all at once. That is why it is so popular,” he said.

Red Leaf had customers looking for it and decided to add it to the menu.

“We sell a lot of it. Our recipe is good. It seems like every restaurant makes pad Thai a little different,” Xie said.

Karen Gao, the manager of Peking Garden in Manchester, said that people call her restaurant all the time looking for pad Thai.

“It is interesting that people are calling a Chinese restaurant, because it is a Thailand dish, but we get a lot of people looking for it,” she said.

Peking Garden sells quite a few bowls of pad Thai.

“I think that when people eat pad Thai, they always seem to leave happy,” Gao said.

Get your pad
Here are a few of the local places serving up pad Thai:
• Bamboo Garden, 329 Lincoln St., Manchester, 624-0009; $6.50-$6.95 for your choice of pork, beef, chicken, vegetable or shrimp
• Dynamite Sushi, 30 Lowell Road, Hudson, 889-0055; $8.99 for tofu, chicken & shrimp, chicken or beef
• Giant of Siam, 5 E. Hollis St., Nashua, 595-2222
• Golden Palace, 321 Nashua St., Milford, 673-1323; $6.95 for choice of chicken, shrimp or vegetable
• Hong Kong City, 864 Page St., Manchester, 668-9188; $7.75 for choice of shrimp, beef or chicken
• Lakorn Thai, 470 S. Main St., Manchester, 626-4545
• Peking Garden, 967 Elm St., Manchester, 623-8880; $7.95
• Pho Golden Bowl, 124 Queen City Ave., Manchester, 622-2000; $7.50 for choice of chicken, beef, pork or vegetables
• Red Leaf, 295 DW Hwy., Nashua, 888-7999; $8.25 for choice of chicken, shrimp, beef or vegetable
• Tea Garden, 28 Railroad Sq., Nashua, 598-1798; $7.50, vegetarian for $7
• Tiya’s Retaurant, 8 Hanover St., Manchester, 669-4365; $7.50
• Wah Tong, 665 Hooksett Road, Manchester,626-1689; $9.95 with shrimp and chicken
• Yuki, 377 S. Willow St., Manchester, 666-6678; $8 for choice of shrimp, chicken or vegetable.

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A year of eats

All-you-can-read guide to breakfast
A bagel by any other l
A picnic — it’s romance with ants
A sweet burst of summer, in stages
Beef, It's What's For Dinner, Lunch, And Dessert
Be it ever so humble, the burger rules
Blockbuster snacks for your movie
Box Of Chocolates
C Is For Cookie And Christmas And Cool Combo
Celebrating A Holiday For The Rest Of Us
Celebrate Easter In A Sugar Coma
Chat And Chew

Chinese soup is magic
Chocolate cake makes everything better
Chocolate, Part II
Competition flows like chocolate
Corn Flake Chicken, Honeycomb Salad
Dining at the "Your House Bistro"
Don't Dread The Bread
Dress Up Your Next Meal
Drinking Out Of The Box
Eating Your Way Back To Health
Enter Soup
Experiments With Very Bad Brownies
Feeding A Crowd The Morning After
Follow the cider house rules
Fresh Herbs
Go ahead — run silent, run deep
Goodbye corn syrup, hello organic oatmeal
Go Indian for Thanksgiving
Grilled Cheese Junkie

Halloween candy for grown-ups
Have a Happy Meal and a happier wallet
Holiday Cookies - The Easy Way
Holiday Potluck 101-Tips For The Kitchen Novice
Home-Based Date
How do you like them apples?
In-A-Pinch Love Feast
It's not easy to be cheesy
It’s not Christmas without tamales
Lest We Forget The Humble Squash
Keeping your cool while you eat
Living through your salad days

Looking Beyond The Hot Dog Stand
Lunching your way to a less toxic you
Meat's meat and a man's gotta eat

Moist and delicious chicken — no, really
Oatmeal Cookies, The Miracle Cure
Oscar Night, When The Stars Come Out To Eat

Offering Up A Slice Of Teriyaki Pie
Pot Pies Are Darn Tasty
Pumpkin-Flavored Treats
Small Plates Are The Next Big Thing
Speedy 'za not pie in the sky
Steak: it’s what’s for dinner, again
Summer coolers, just add sunlight
Summer Squash
Super Bowl Grub
Take A Walk On The Dark Side
Taste of Manchester Event
The Cosmopolitan
The joys of a simple oatmeal breakfast
The return of comfort food
The One-Note Cook Book
The New American Plate Cookbook
The Stickiest, Hottest & Sweetest Of Love's Labors
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The Unheralded Peanut Butter Cookies
The union of sweet and heat
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