February 9, 2006


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Biting into the burger with bling
I will gladly pay you tomorrow for a Kobe beef with blue cheese burger today
By Susan Reilly  news@hippopress.com

Seems the $10 luxury burger has dug its heels in.

Once seen only in L.A. and NYC and on the room service menus at expensive hotels, burgers priced at or near the $10 mark are appearing all across southern New Hampshire.
Why the mark-up?

Chris Martin, chef at Michael Timothy’s in Nashua, said that beef prices have climbed, tenderloin has doubled in cost, and that is the reason for the high prices.

“It is not as simple as making a burger from ground hamburg found in the grocery store,” said Martin. In fact, Michael Timothy’s has developed it own recipe using three parts tenderloin and one part chuck to create a juicy burger.

“The hamburger is an all-American staple, that is why we keep it on the lunch menu — people want it. But we decided that if we were going to have it on the menu, it would be the best burger we could come up with. And I think we have that,” he said.

Martin said he does not think people mind paying top dollar for a burger when it is made with the highest-quality meats.

“Choice meats, with no byproducts or fillers and the right amount of fat, make a high-end burger. But that is what people want,” Martin said.

“Go on and get an 89-cent fast food burger. It will be a two-ounce burger with low, low-grade meats. What you will find in good restaurants, at least mine, is top-grade ground sirloin beef in a juicy eight-ounce patty, fresh veggies and a homemade bun. You can’t beat that,” said Hale Cole-Tucker, chef at Depot Square Steakhouse in Derry.

Depot Square Steakhouse sells its burger with a half dozen different toppings.

“We sell a ton of burgers. I think they remain so popular because they are truly an American favorite,” Cole-Tucker said.

At Cotton in Manchester, owner and chef Jeff Paige made the decision to jump from certified Black Angus for burgers to Kobe beef because Burger King started using Black Angus.

“When I saw the ads for Burger King, I wondered what the customer was going to think. Black Angus there, for a fraction of the price, or at my restaurant for more, so I made the switch,” he said.

Paige said he was nervous, because the switch from Black Angus to Kobe meant an increase in price.

“Not everyone understands that better sometimes costs more, so I was worried,” he said.

The switch paid off; Paige reports that Cotton sells more burgers than ever.

“The bottom line is that people love a good burger,” Paige said.

While every restaurant has its own secret recipe for the beef patty, there are common denominators in toppings. Cheese, of course, includingtop cheeses like Vermont cheddars and artisanal bleu cheeses. Smoked bacon is another popular topper as is a fresh, house-baked bun.

“For the most part, when you order a burger it is comforting because the end result will be pretty predictable. Everyone knows what they like on their burger and how they want it cooked and that is how you will get it,” said Cole-Tucker. “And when you get what you want, you don’t mind paying for it.”

Comments? Thoughts? Discuss this article and more at hippoflea.com  

Kobe or not kobe ...

Kobe beef. It seems to be everywhere and commanding high prices, but what exactly is it?

The Wagyu cow blesses the Earth with Kobe beef. While Kobe beef is known for its tenderness, flavor and well marbled texture, how it gets that way is somewhat of a mystery. Some point to the superior genetics of the Wagyu cow. Others say it is the labor-intensive massaging that the Wagyu cow receives. Maybe it is the beer the cows are fed.

True Kobe beef is raised and slaughtered in Japan. There, the Wagyu cows are massaged because they have little room to exercise. Because the cows get so little exercise, they have little appetites, so they are fed beer because the yeast stimulates their appetites. Part myth? Who knows ? The Kobe beef industry has done nothing to deny these rumors.

It is estimated that there are only between 3,000 and 4,000 Kobe beef cattle available each year in Japan and therefore the country does not export it. Kobe beef costs over $100 per pound in Japan.
In America, restaurants serve Kobe-style beef produced from a crossbreed of the Wagyu and the American Black Angus that is raised and slaughtered the same way as the Japanese Wagyu cows.
-Susan Reilly

Hankering for a burger?

Here is a handy guide to some of the area’s top burgers.
• Bedford Village Inn (2 Village Inn Lane, Bedford, 472-2001) Grilled Angus beef burger with caramelized onions, smoked bacon, Vermont cheddar, herb-Parmesan hand-cut French fries. Choice of toasted onion roll or whole wheat roll ($10). Trio of mini Angus burgers: St. Andre cheese, port reduction and fried shallots; barbecue beef shortrib and cabbage slaw; roasted mushroom and Gorgonzola. All served on an herb roll and with herb-Parmesan hand-cut French fries ($12) .
• Michael Timothy’s (212 Main St., Nashua 595-9334) Wood-grilled steak burger on a potato roll with Swiss cheese, bacon, pickles, house sauce and onions ($9).
• Fody’s Great American (9 Clinton St., Nashua) Grilled hamburger with aged cheddar, smoked bacon, lettuce and herb mayonnaise on a toasted bun ($10).
• Cotton (75 Arms Park Drive, Manchester, 622-5488) All-American Kobe burger ($9.50). Bleu Heaven burger with bleu cheese, Applewood smoked bacon, lettuce, tomatoes and pickles ($10.50). Magic mushroom and Swiss burger with sautéed mushrooms, Swiss cheese, lettuce, tomatoes and pickles ($10.50). Lo-carb-friendly burger served with a fork and knife sans bun with side of steamed broccolini, cheese optional ($9.50).
• Depot Square Steakhouse (East Broadway, Derry, 437-4200) Steakhouse cheeseburger topped with American, cheddar, Swiss or pepper jack cheese ($7.99). Bacon burger topped with crisp hickory-smoked bacon and cheddar cheese ($8.99). Mushroom burger topped with fresh sauteed mushrooms and Swiss cheese ($8.99). Southwest burger topped with jalapeños, chili and pepper jack cheese ($8.99). BBQ burger topped with cheddar cheese, bacon, sautéed onions and smoky BBQ sauce ($9.99).
• Hanover Street Chophouse (149 Hanover St., Manchester, 644-2467) Fresh ground all natural sirloin, aged Grafton Village Vermont cheddar, house-made bun and fries ($10).
• Buckley’s Great Steaks (438 DW Highway, Merrimack, 424-0995) Ground fresh from select trimmings withcheddar cheese and smoked bacon ($9).
• Toro (63 Union Square, Milford, 673-1815) Burger served on a brioche bun with cognac mustard, melted brie, crispy pancetta and bitter greens with pomme frites ($8).
• The Barley House (132 N. Main Street, Concord, 228-6363) Dublin Burger pepper-charred and topped with bleu cheese and whiskey gravy ($7.95).

02/02/2006 Forget formal dining, head to the bar
01/26/2006 Goodbye rooster, hello year of the dog
01/19/2006 The secret lives of chefs
01/12/2006 Cooking up a pot of delayed gratification
01/05/2006 A sunny Italian side dish
A year of eats

All-you-can-read guide to breakfast
A bagel by any other label
A picnic — it’s romance with ants
A sweet burst of summer, in stages
Beef, It's What's For Dinner, Lunch, And Dessert
Be it ever so humble, the burger rules
Blockbuster snacks for your movie
Box Of Chocolates
C Is For Cookie And Christmas And Cool Combo
Celebrating A Holiday For The Rest Of Us
Celebrate Easter In A Sugar Coma
Chat And Chew

Chinese soup is magic
Chocolate cake makes everything better
Chocolate, Part II
Competition flows like chocolate
Corn Flake Chicken, Honeycomb Salad
Dining at the "Your House Bistro"
Don't Dread The Bread
Dress Up Your Next Meal
Drinking Out Of The Box
Eating Your Way Back To Health
Enter Soup
Experiments With Very Bad Brownies
Feeding A Crowd The Morning After
Follow the cider house rules
Fresh Herbs
Go ahead — run silent, run deep
Goodbye corn syrup, hello organic oatmeal
Go Indian for Thanksgiving
Grilled Cheese Junkie

Halloween candy for grown-ups
Have a Happy Meal and a happier wallet
Holiday Cookies - The Easy Way
Holiday Potluck 101-Tips For The Kitchen Novice
Home-Based Date
How do you like them apples?
In-A-Pinch Love Feast
It's not easy to be cheesy
It’s not Christmas without tamales
Lest We Forget The Humble Squash
Keeping your cool while you eat
Living through your salad days

Looking Beyond The Hot Dog Stand
Lunching your way to a less toxic you
Meat's meat and a man's gotta eat

Moist and delicious chicken — no, really
Oatmeal Cookies, The Miracle Cure
Oscar Night, When The Stars Come Out To Eat

Offering Up A Slice Of Teriyaki Pie
Pot Pies Are Darn Tasty
Pumpkin-Flavored Treats
Small Plates Are The Next Big Thing
Speedy 'za not pie in the sky
Steak: it’s what’s for dinner, again
Summer coolers, just add sunlight
Summer Squash
Super Bowl Grub
Take A Walk On The Dark Side
Taste of Manchester Event
The Cosmopolitan
The joys of a simple oatmeal breakfast
The return of comfort food
The One-Note Cook Book
The New American Plate Cookbook
The Stickiest, Hottest & Sweetest Of Love's Labors
The taste of retro
The Unheralded Peanut Butter Cookies
The union of sweet and heat
The Weekly Dish (12-16-04)
The Weekly Dish (12-23-04)

The Weekly Dish [1-13-05]
There's a Barbecue Bonanza Next Door
Week Four: Adding Diet To The Mix
What Was Hot And Haute In 2004
When $$ trumps urge to dine out
When in doubt, go for the organic
When nothing else will cool, Slurp it
You Say Potato, She'll Say Potato,Too
You say tomato, writer says lunch